25-Pack FE Systemic Iron Tree Implants for Control of Iron Chlorosis, 3/8-Inch

I have a Pin Oak with Chlorosis. Talked to the County Agent. They explained that the soil was not acidic enough and the tree was not getting enough iron, Leaves were turning yellow, burning and falling off. The tree was dying. I tried acidifying the soil for months. Nothing helped. I ordered these capsules. So easy, I couldn't believe it. Use a drill bit, drill into the bark, shove the capsule in, Done... Put in the capsules per the instructions and within two weeks, I saw a marked difference in leaf color. In a month all of the leaves were dark green, instead of yellow and scorched. Some damage has been done by waiting so long to treat, but I can treat my Pin Oak every couple of years and have a healthy tree. Very happy and relieved. I wish I had gone straight to this rather than trying to change the soil.

I treated a sickly yellow river birch in the heat of the summer. It took about 3 weeks for the leaves to completely change from yellow to a healthy green, and the leaves continue to darken into a deeper green each week. You could pay a tree company maybe $150 to treat, or do it yourself. It takes less than 10 minutes to complete the process. You'll need a drill and drill bit and a hammer or mallet to gently tap them in. The only thing I can't comment on is how long the product lasts. I'm guessing two or maybe 3 seasons. I can't talk to trees, but I think my birch says thank you after years of neglect.Quick tip: If you've done a soil test and find pH values over 7.3, then you likely have an iron problem. Even if iron is in the soil, pH values over 7.6 essentially lock all the iron up chemically and it's unavailable to the plants and trees. This sort of product is probably the quickest and easiest way to treat iron deficient trees.

product was great as we have used same product in the past with good success on ur pin oak tree

I have a number of trees that became chlorotic this year. I'm thinking the irregular heavy rains of last season washed out a lot of the nutrients. That's the assumption at least. One tree in particular, a Chanticleer Pear, had been chlorotic for about 3 years and has not grown at all in the same time frame.The first two years of its chlorosis, I tried to give it sulfur and iron to no effect. Last year, I gave it some 16-16-16 to induce growth and help it pull out iron from the soil. This year, it came back with almost white leaves. Desperate to save it, I purchased these and removed the capsule from the casing and put it directly into the holes I drilled (not advisable from the instructions but it was do or die for this tree). I then overwatered the tree to get water moving through its vascular system. Within one week, the leaves are the normal dark green they were when we got the tree 5 years ago. I can't see any new growth that I'd expect from the tree now having an energy source, but we'll see.Pictures forthcoming.

too small for my tree. I think the description was a little off. Good for a smaller tree though

Great product! These greened up my 40-50ft trees fast and deeper green then they have ever been. It literally only took 4-7 days to work. This is by far the best product I’ve used and a must for alkaline clay soils, that the soil won’t allow absorption of iron etc.

I have a very large river birch that was showing severe signs of iron deficiency. All the leaves were yellow tinged. I used this product a few weeks ago, and I can already see a big difference in the color of the new leaves coming out. The old leaves haven't really changed and I don't expect they will, but I can tell from the new growth that the product is working. According to the packaging, I should see a big difference next spring. I'm anxious to see if that's the case.

I followed the instructions as noted but have noticed no improvement in the iron deficient autumn blaze tree after 30 days. The deficiency has became worse. I took photos before the treatment and can send the latest photos as well.